A man’s guide to choosing the perfect suit

Classic suits

Classic suitsform the basis of a well-rounded wardrobe. They are characterised by their timeless design, which typically consists of a single-breasted jacket with notched lapels and flat-front trousers.Classic suitsare versatile and suitable for a range of occasions, from business meetings to formal events. The single-breasted jacket, with a single row of buttons – usually two or three – creates a clean and streamlined look. Notched lapels, which are the most common lapel style, are versatile and suit all body types. Trousers with a flat front give a modern look whilst retaining a classic appeal.Classic suitsare ideal for those who prefer a traditional and timeless look. They are available in a range of colours, with navy blue, charcoal grey and black being the most popular choices. These suits are a safe investment, as they never go out of fashion and can be worn for many years to come.

Modern suits

Modern suitsoffer a modern twist on the classic design. They often feature slimmer cuts, narrower lapels and shorter jackets. Modern suits are designed to create a more form-fitting and streamlined silhouette, making them popular amongst younger professionals and fashion-conscious individuals. Key features include a slim-fit jacket that tapers at the waist and fits closer to the body, narrow lapels that give the jacket a modern feel, and tapered trousers that are narrower at the ankles, creating a sleek and stylish look. Modern suits are perfect for those who want to make a fashion statement whilst maintaining a professional appearance. They are available in a wide range of fabrics and colours, allowing for a more personalised look and versatile styling.

Contemporary suits

Contemporary suitspush the boundaries of traditional suits by incorporating unique details, bold patterns and innovative fabrics. These suits are ideal for those who want to stand out and showcase their individual style.Contemporary suitsare often seen on the catwalk and in exclusive shops. Bold patterns such as checks, plaids and stripes add visual interest and personality, whilst unique fabrics such as velvet and linen create a distinctive look. Innovative cuts with asymmetrical designs, unconventional lapels and creative details make these suits something special. Modern suits are best suited to special occasions, fashion events or for people working in creative industries. They allow for greater creativity and self-expression, but may not be suitable for more conservative settings.

Wool suit

Wool is the most common and versatile fabric for suits. It is known for its durability, breathability and natural resistance to creasing. Wool suits can be worn all year round, and there are different weights to suit the various seasons. Types of wool include worsted, a smooth, high-quality wool that is hard-wearing and ideal for formal suits; tweed, a coarser, heavier wool that is perfect for colder weather and adds texture to your wardrobe; and flannel, which is soft and warm and perfect for winter suits. Wool suits are ideal for both professional and formal occasions. They come in many different weaves and textures, so you can choose a suit that suits your style and the season.

Cotton suit

Cotton suits are a good choice for warmer weather because of their breathability and comfort. They are less formal than woollen suits, but still have a smart look. Cotton suits are often available in lighter colours, making them perfect for summer events and relaxed business settings. The key features of cotton suits are that they are breathable and comfortable, making them ideal for warm weather and outdoor events. They offer a relaxed yet smart look that suits less formal occasions whilst still looking sharp, and they come in a wide range of colours, often in lighter shades that are perfect for spring and summer. Cotton suits are perfect for relaxed office environments, garden parties and summer weddings. They offer a relaxed yet refined look, which is ideal for occasions in warm weather.

Linen suit

Linen suits are synonymous with summer elegance. Linen is a light, breathable fabric that is perfect for warm climates. However, linen creases easily, giving it a more relaxed and casual look. Its key features are that it is light and breathable, keeping you cool in warm weather. Linen suits offer a relaxed look with their laid-back charm and are ideal for summer events such as beach weddings, outdoor parties and casual get-togethers. Linen suits are best suited to casual or semi-formal events in warm weather. They offer a sophisticated yet relaxed look that is perfect for summer.

Synthetic blends

Synthetic blends, such as polyester or rayon, are often used to make suits more affordable and durable. These fabrics can mimic the appearance of natural fibres, whilst offering greater resistance to creasing and a longer lifespan. The key characteristics of synthetic blends are that they are cheaper than natural fibres, hard-wearing and resistant to creasing and wear and tear, and that they are available in a wide range of styles and colours. Synthetic blend suits are ideal for those on a tight budget, or for suits that will see a lot of wear and tear. They offer a practical and cost-effective solution without compromising on style.

Understanding the fit of a suit

The fit of asuitis crucial to its overall appearance. A well-fitting suit flatters your figure and exudes confidence. There are three main fits to consider: classic fit, slim fit and modern fit. A classic fit is roomy and comfortable, offering plenty of space without being baggy. It provides a timeless look that suits all body types and occasions, making it versatile for both business and formal settings. A slim fit is tailored and streamlined, sitting closer to the body with a narrow waist and tapered legs. It offers a modern aesthetic that is ideal for younger men or those with a slender build, creating a fashionable, elegant look. A modern fit strikes a balance between classic and slim fits, offering a versatile and stylish look that suits most body types and occasions.

Tailoring and alterations

Even ready-made onessuitoften require a little adjustment to achieve the perfect fit. The most important areas to focus on are the shoulders, sleeves, waist and trouser length. The shoulders must sit properly, and the shoulder seams must line up with the edge of your shoulders. Minor adjustments can be made, but significant alterations can be expensive. The sleeve length should end at the wrist, so that half a centimetre to a full centimetre of the shirt cuff is visible, and this is one of the easiest adjustments to make. The jacket should fit snugly around the waist without pulling or feeling tight, and the waist can be taken in or let out to achieve a better fit. Trousers should have a slight crease at the shoe, where the hem rests lightly on the top of the shoe, and it is common to adjust the length and taper of the trousers. Working with a skilled tailor can make a significant difference to the fit and appearance of your suit. Even minor alterations can improve comfort and style and ensure that your suit looks tailor-made.

Clothing for your body shape

It is important to understand your body type when choosing a suit that flatters your figure. If you have an athletic build, focus on the fit by choosing slim-fit or modern-fit suits to highlight your physique and avoid excess fabric, keeping the look streamlined and tailored. If you are tall and slim, add volume with classicsuitand use patterns and textured fabrics to create visual interest. If you are short and stocky, use vertical lines such as pinstripes and longer jackets to elongate your silhouette, and avoid looking too bulky by sticking to slim or modern fits. If you have broad shoulders, balance your proportions with suits that have a structured shoulder and a slightly tapered waist, and avoid narrow lapels by choosing wider ones to balance out your broad shoulders. By dressing according to your body shape, you can ensure that your suit highlights your best features and gives you a polished and confident look.

Essential accessories

Accessories play a crucial role in completing yoursuit. The right accessories can enhance your look and give it a personal touch. Ties and bow ties are essential; a tie is a classic choice, whilst a bow tie is a unique and formal alternative. Choosing the right colour and pattern for your tie can give your suit some personality. Pocket squares are another important accessory that add a splash of colour and style to your jacket. Choose contrasting colours or patterns to make a statement. Cufflinks are indispensable for shirts with French cuffs and offer a chance to showcase personal style and elegance. Shoes are an important part of the ensemble, with classic options such as Oxfords, Derbies or loafers in colours that complement your suit.

The final details

Other accessories you should consider arebelts, watches and socks. A leather belt should match the colour of your shoes to create a cohesive look. A classic watch adds a touch of sophistication, with metal or leather straps that complement your overall style. Socks can be used to add a splash of colour or pattern, but ensure they are appropriate for the formality of the occasion and do not detract from the overall look. Also consider care and maintenance. Ensure your suit is clean and well-pressed, and pay attention to your personal grooming to complete the polished look. Accessories and details can make all the difference to your suit. They offer the chance to express your individuality and attention to detail, ensuring you look impeccably stylish and confident.